The soul of a city is especially apparent in its festivities, and Holy Week, the most baroque, most typically Andalusian celebration of all, sees Malaga become an enormous stage upon which its entire populace comes together to remember the Passion of Christ. In the candlelight, amidst the gleam of gold and silver and the aroma of incense and orange blossom, the huge processional ‘tronos’, veritable moving altarpieces, paint a truly unforgettable picture.
Eight Holy Week brotherhoods stage their processions today, parading a total of thirteen ‘tronos’. Excitement and colour are the watchwords on this first day of Malaga's Holy Week.
Morning
Those who wish to experience all of the sensations that the day has to offer are advised to make an early start. At eight o' clock, the image of La Virgen de Lagrimas y Favores leaves the church of San Juan; the highlight of the procession of this strikingly beautiful ‘trono’ is its passage through the Plaza de Felix Saenz. After a hearty breakfast, we suggest that you wait near the cathedral in order to see the departure of La Pollinica from its temple at Calle Parra and share in the joy of the children bearing palms as they herald Jesus’s entry into Jerusalem.
The rest of the morning may be spent visiting the temples of some of the brotherhoods whose processions take place in the afternoon and evening or watching the first legion guard accompanying El Cristo de la Buena Muerte at La Parroquia deSantoDomingo (parish church).
Afternoon/Evening
After a light tapa lunch at one of the bars and restaurants in the old town centre, you should head for Plaza de Capuchinos to see the procession of El Señor de la Soledad at 16:00; the statuesque beauty of this image and the attention to detail in the Jewish guard that accompanies it are a wonder to behold. Make your way to El Molinillo district to witness the difficult departure of El Señor de la Salutacion from La Parroquia de SanFelipe Neri (parish church) at 16:00 or follow this procession in the area near El Conventode las Carmelitas (convent). It would be a good idea to get some rest at one of the cafes in the historical centre during the evening in order to try some delicious Malaga pastries.
Night
At around 22:00, you can go to the cathedral to follow inside La Cofradia de la Salud route.We recommend you dinner at one of the many restaurants in the area near c/ San Agustin.
Other idea could be, after dinner, at around 22:00, to be at La Tribuna de los Pobres to see the magnificent ‘tronos’ paraded by El Huerto. Finally, we suggest that you accompany El Prendimiento from Calle Dos Aceras, at around midnight, until it lays its float to rest before a mass audience near the Conservatorio Superior de Musica from 01:00.
This is the day of greatest contrast, since each of the six brotherhoods that carry their twelve ‘tronos’ has a most individual style.
Morning
One of the most intense moments of Easter Week in Malaga is without doubt the transfer of Jesus Cautivo and La Virgen de la Trinidad to their processional floats following early morning mass on the esplanade of La Parroquia de San Pablo (parish church). It begins at 8:00 but the entry of the images into El Hospital Civil where they are seen by the patients at 10:00 should not be missed. This morning also offers the chance to visit La Parroquia de Los Martires to see the floats paraded by La Cofradia de la Pasion, whose candles are lit at 12:00.
Afternoon/Evening
By 16:30 we should be on the steep slopes of Calle Carrion to see the difficult descent of La Crucifixion. Close by, just an hour later, we will witness the vibrant departure of El Señor de la Columna and La Virgen de la O, known as 'the gypsies'; here, the music of the band mingles with the prayers and dance of the gypsy people. Afterwards, we can head to the area around the cathedral at about 18:00 to admire the ‘tronos’ of La Cofradia de la Pasion in Calle Santa Maria in the shadow of the gothic façade of La Iglesia del Sagrario (church). Just a stone's throw away from here, we can see LosEstudiantes wend their way from Calle Cister across Plaza del Carbon (19:30) to crowded Calle Carreteria.
Night
After some sustenance at one of the bars or restaurants in the town centre, a main point for any visitor is the unique sight of the procession of El Cautivo as it crosses El Puentede la Aurora (bridge) (22:00) with a sea of devotees in its wake who have been following it since early afternoon and will continue to do so until it is returned to its temple. Another location not to be missed is La Plaza del Obispo where, towards midnight, the ‘tronos’ paraded by Los Estudiantes will converge while the Bishop looks on from portico of the main entrance to the cathedral. To round off this busy day, we recommend that you spend the early hours following La Cofradia de los Dolores del Puente (1:30) as the procession passes through El Llano de Doña Trinidad and CalleCerrojo, locations steeped in history.
La Victoria plays a key role today as three of the six brotherhoods whose processions take place on Tuesday come from this typical district of the city.
Morning
Malaga offers many chances to spend an attractive and at the same a quiet morning getting to know and enjoying the three promenades of the city, visiting some monuments or making good use of these quiet hours to visit our CAC (Contemporary Art Centre), the Picasso Foundation-Native Home, or Malaga Picasso Museum.
Afternoon/Evening
We recommend that you set off early (17:15) for the Victoria district to see the procession of El Rocio making its way through El Jardin de los Monos and on to Plaza de la Merced along Calle Victoria. If we stay in this area, at 19:00 we will be able to see the procession of El Rescate in the narrow Calle Aguas and appreciate its colourful cortège, the beauty of its patrimony and its unique ‘trono’ with its gothic-style Virgin. In nearby Plaza de la Merced, you will be able to see the procession of La Sentencia at 20:30 in the attractive architectural setting provided by Picasso's birthplace and the monument erected in memory of General Torrijos.
Night
We suggest that you sample one of the many typical dishes on offer in the old town centre before continuing. The area between Puerta del Mar and C/ Larios offers many chances that will not disappoint you. Get to Plaza del Obispo by 22:00 to admire the efforts of the members of La Cofradia de la Nueva Esperanza in front of the main façade of the cathedral. From here, you can head towards the heart of 16th-century Malaga, Calle San Agustin, to enjoy the procession of Las Penas at around 23:00. Afterwards, we will make for the Alameda Principal to see the procession of La Humillacion, which parades the oldest of all Malaga's Easter ‘tronos’. To finish off Holy Tuesday, meet up with El Rocio as it comes back to the district to be returned to its temple amidst great popular fervour.
Today we reach the halfway stage of Easter Week with six brotherhoods parading their thirteen ‘tronos’. Grandeur and splendour are the words that best sum up each and every one of these processions.
Morning
We can start off by visiting the temple-museum of La Cofradia de la Expiracion, which houses an art collection of great merit.
Afternoon/Evening
Our afternoon begins at 16:30 in Plaza de Capuchinos with the departure of Los Salesianos. We shall then head for La Parroquia de Santo Domingo to see the Way of the Cross of La Congregacion de Mena on the streets of El Perchel district at around 18:00. At 19:00 we will cross El Puente de los Alemanes (bridge) and make for Plaza deFelix Saenz to admire the dense cortège of La Cofradias Fusionadas. Before taking a rest, we recommend that you attend the traditional ceremony in which a prisoner is freed by the image of Jesus El Rico at 20:30 near Plaza de la Aduana, very close to the Alcazaba.
Night
After keeping our strength up by sampling 'pescaito' (fried fish) and other culinary delights to be found in the old town centre's many bars, we shall head for the Alameda Principal at 22:00 to see the magnificent floats paraded by La Cofradia de la Paloma, in which doves, the birds that give the society its name, are set free. Then go to the end of Calle Carreteria to witness the vibrant meeting of the ‘tronos’ carried by La Cofradia de la Sangre at La Tribuna de los Pobres. Finally, we recommend that you try to find a seat in the Alameda Principal in order to enjoy at around midnight the procession of La Expiracion and appreciate both the components of its cortège and the immense artistry of its ‘tronos’. If you wish to see one of the ‘tronos’ returned to its temple, we suggest you watch El Rico in Calle Alcazabilla at about 01:30.
This is without doubt the most popular day in terms of attendance, which makes it difficult to get around and find spots that are not too crowded. Seven brotherhoods and thirteen ‘tronos’ will go on procession.
Morning
We suggest that you be at the port for 10:00 to witness the legionary troops as they arrive in Malaga; these soldiers lift El Cristo de la Buena Muerte onto its processional ’trono’ (12:00) and subsequently carry it to the brotherhood's procession. After midday, a visit to the temple-museum of La Cofradia de la Esperanza to take a closer look at the ‘tronos’ of El Nazareno del Paso and La Virgen de Malaga is a must.
Afternoon/Evening
We recommend that you head for Calle Carreteria at 18:00 to see the departure of La Cofradia de Viñeros and witness the ceremonial placing of the key in the hand of the Nazarene. Afterwards, at 18:30, make for the Alameda Principal to see the walking cathedrals that are the ‘tronos’ of La Sagrada Cena and La Virgen de la Paz. Nearby, at Puente de Tetuan (20:00) you can admire the procession of La Congregacion de Mena accompanied by the Legion and the Navy. Then, if you can manage to exit the AlamedaPrincipal via its north side, go to Calle San Agustin to follow the sober cortège of LaSanta Cruz until it reaches Plaza de la Merced at around 21:00.
Night
After a visit to one of the restaurants in the town centre to sample the wide variety of tapas and dishes on offer, you can enjoy at around 23:30 the visual feast provided by La Misericordia in front of the cathedral in Plaza del Obispo. Then, head for the Alameda Principal to witness a unique sight in Malaga's Easter week; the crossing of the processions of La Esperanza and Mena at around 00:30. Afterwards, go to La Tribunade los Pobres to hear the people of Malaga pay compliments to La Virgen de laAmargura (Zamarrilla) as it returns to its home district. Stay at this spot to receive the blessing of El Nazareno del Paso and accompany La Virgen de la Esperanza on its return home across the carpet of rosemary that now covers the streets of Malaga.
Silence is the main feature on this day of mourning and reflection. Fourteen ‘tronos’ are paraded through the streets of Malaga as eight different brotherhoods carry their sacred images.
Morning
In the morning of the Good Friday, meditation prevails over any other consideration. We suggest a visit to any of the churches with Eucharistic monuments in the old town centre.
Afternoon/Evening
The large number of fraternities taking part today means that an early start is advisable to avoid missing any of them. We suggest you watch the procession of El Descendimiento throughout the park at around 17:30. An hour later, head for Plaza de Arriola where the canticles sung by of Las Hermanas de la Cruz to La Cofradia de Los Dolores de SanJuan will take you back several centuries into the past. By 19:00, you should be at the cathedral to admire the solemnity of the Way of the Cross-of El Santisimo CristoMutilado. We suggest that after tasting some torrijas and other pastries, go to El Puentede la Aurora to watch El Santo Traslado and La Virgen de la Soledad.
Night
After dinner, you should not miss the procession of La Virgen de la Piedad along narrow Calle Ollerias, the anteroom to La Cruz del Molinillo district, at around 21:30. And if you want to see an Easter procession combined with a rich architectural setting, witness the departure from the cathedral of La Hermandad del Monte Calvario and its progress along Calle de San Agustin at around 23:00. Nearby Calle Caldereria you can watch El Cristo del Amor and La Virgen de la Caridad as they return to La Victoria district shortly after midnight. As Easter Saturday begins, we will see the plainness of the cortège of El Santo Sepulcro in Calle Larios, accompanied on its way by Chopin's funeral march, at around 01:00. All will be shrouded in darkness when, after the Dead Son, we follow La Virgen de Servitas along this same road. Finally, we can go to watch El Santo Sepulcro to be returned to its temple at 03:00 in front of la Alcazaba, accompanied by prayer amidst an impressive silence
The procession of El Resucitado is Malaga's celebration of the resurrection of the Lord. Nazarenes from each and every one of the brotherhoods take part together, creating a colourful cortège that, due to its extreme length, is best viewed sitting in one of the seats provided by the Association of Easter Fraternities throughout the official route.
This procession reaches the Alameda Principal at 12:00 midday and finishes at La Iglesia de San Julian (parish church), near Calle Carreteria, at 14:00.
Finally, there will be just enough time to sample a typical dish washed down with local wine before heading off to one of our beaches to enjoy the benevolent climate that makes Malaga a "City of Paradise".
